History & Wine

After an incredible culinary-focused wedding in the South of France at the stunning Château L’Hospitalet in Narbonne, my husband and I hit the road (actually a train) to head down to Barcelona and then the Basque Country for a honeymoon filled with eating and drinking.

We made some reservations at restaurants that required it, but we also stumbled into a few spots on our own in the moment, or at the suggestion of someone local. Here are very honest reviews of some of the places we ate and drank for your future planning purposes.

Northern Spain Dining Adventure Reviews

Barcelona

Mont Bar

C/ de la Diputació, 220, 08011 Barcelona, Spain

Mont Bar is a 1-star Michelin restaurant that is really only for snacking. Most of the dishes are very small – like one bite each – so, you should order several per person. The food is good, but not really my style. I like to feel satisfied when I leave a restaurant, and Mont Bar left something to be desired.

The ambiance is bistro-like. Small and quaint interior with some outside sidewalk seating. When we were there, the guests were mostly American from the accents I heard.

The sommelier basically dismissed us when I asked for a specific suggestion for a bottle of wine. I like to drink as locally as I can when traveling, so I asked him to suggest something from the area – and pointed to the section on Priorat (I love Garnacha). He sent out a bottle he was sure we would love (his words). Instead of returning to our table, he sent a server to deliver the wine. She didn’t know what to say. The wine ended up being a Cab/Merlot blend from Penedès that may as well have been from Napa Valley. I sent it back and asked to speak with him again. It took this negative reaction for him to pay a little more attention to our table of four. We were ready to drink several bottles, and he largely ignored us at first, maybe because he dismissed us as silly Americans. I was very disappointed with that interaction, and it soured the experience a bit.

Overall, I would likely not return to this restaurant.

Koy Shunka

Carrer d’en Copons, 7, 08002 Barcelona, Spain

This spot is a must-dine in Barcelona if you like Japanese food, especially lots of raw fish. It is also a 1-star Michelin restaurant, but the atmosphere here is much more premium than the previously mentioned Mont Bar.

Koy Shunka is an experience. When you sit at the counter around the kitchen, you watch each chef prepare the bite-size portions in an open format. It’s interactive and fun!

We ordered several bottles of sake throughout our very long lunch. All were perfect complements to the seemingly endless procession of fish and seafood dishes.

My only advice would be to go for the smaller tasting menu if you have a smaller appetite. We did the larger one, and I couldn’t handle the last few courses. It is a lot! But all the food was extremely tasty and creative.

I would absolutely go back to this restaurant in Barcelona (and order a bit less).

Petit Tapas

Carrer Ample, 26, 08002 Barcelona, Spain

Petit Tapas is a small but charming tapas spot located in the Gothic Quarter of Barcelona.

The ambiance here is very cool, in my opinion. We sat in the back near the wine fridges and the whole experience had a cozy vibe. A bit of a reprieve from the touristy chaos of the neighborhood. I kept thinking, “I like it here.”

The menu showcased classic tapas, and the food was good. Nothing spectacular, but definitely hit the spot for the tapas craving.

The wine list isn’t huge, but covers the basics of Spanish wines. We ordered several bottles of Rioja and Priorat wines and enjoyed each sip in this adorable, comfortable spot.

I would definitely return and order some tapas here if I ever find myself in the Gothic Quarter again.

Jacqueline Barcelona

C/ d’Enric Granados, 66, 08008 Barcelona, Spain

Jacqueline Barcelona is about as sexy of a restaurant as they come. The interior design is inspired by Jacqueline Roque, Picasso’s second wife and muse. She must have been extravagant! Each space is beautiful, even the peacock-themed bathroom.

The restaurant is multi-leveled with dining spaces, bars, and a future jazz club. The menu is also multi-layered with everything from lamb and steak to sashimi and other Japanese-inspired dishes.

We had a mix of meat, cooked fish, and raw fish, as well as an array of veggies and truffle fries (so good). The wine list is decent and offers bottles of great value. Spanish and international wines are available, as well as a list of Champagnes.

Overall, this was an aesthetically-pleasing and delicious experience I would absolutely repeat on a future visit to Barcelona.

Basque Country

Arzak

Alcalde J. Elosegi Hiribidea, 273, 20015 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain

Oh man, what a disappointment for what you pay here. Arzak is a 3-star Michelin restaurant located in San Sebastián, but, unfortunately, does not live up to the standards of what a 3-star restaurant should be. I’ve detailed this in my Google Review, which you can read. I don’t have much more to say other than we will likely not return.

Geralds Bar

Iparragirre K., 13, 20001 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain

Geralds Bar is a great little dive in the Gros neighborhood across the river from Old Town in San Sebastián. We passed by on a weird walking tour, and the guide pointed it out as being founded by an Australian guy. One afternoon, we thought we’d stop by and have lunch, and it was one of the better dining decisions of our trip.

The menu is small, but the dishes are prepared fresh when you order. Mostly Basque-inspired, each plate was thoughtful and flavorful. I opted for pork loin with kale and carrots, and it was such a delight. A healthier alternative to the pintxos of the Old Town. Prior to the pork, I was served a cold potato and leek soup that was just divine with our bottle of Rioja (Garnacha-dominant).

Based off of our pleasant lunch experience here, I would absolutely return.

Casa Urola

Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 20, 20003 Donostia, Gipuzkoa, Spain

I was exhausted by the time we got to this famous pintxo bar in Old Town San Sebastián, but it was still a delicious treat.

Order off the menu for freshly prepared pintxos (this is advice for everywhere). I ordered the white asparagus with ham and some kind of creamy sauce. It was worth braving the exhaustion to enjoy. Perfectly cooked asparagus and lots of Basque flavors.

I’ll need to taste more dishes for a full review, but based on that, and my husband’s rave review of his scallop, we’ll be back.

Kaia Kaipe

General Arnao Kalea, 4, 20808 Getaria, Gipuzkoa, Spain

Definitely find a way to Getaria and visit this iconic restaurant in this tiny little fishing town. We did a day tour with Basque Tours to get here (and see other sights), but you can taxi from San Sebastián if you want.

Kaia Kaipe specializes in grilled fish made on an outdoor charcoal grill next to the terrace, as well as other seafood dishes. Everything is fresh here and worth ordering. It’s hard to leave hungry.

The restaurant is beautiful and decorated like an old ship. Both floors have views of the little port of Getaria where all the fishing boats depart from daily.

An absolute must-dine in the region! Make reservations ahead of time. We’ll be back.

Restaurante Amaren

Diputazio Kalea, 6, 48009 Bilbo, Bizkaia, Spain

If you don’t make a reservation to eat at Amaren during your visit to Bilbao, you are seriously missing out on a delightful dining experience. I’m especially talking to meat lovers.

This is an excellent steakhouse in the heart of Bilbao, with a chic and modern dining room that offers an ambiance that is perfect for date night. I say as much in my Google Review as you can read. 10/10 we will be back on a future visit to this great Spanish city.

There were other small little restaurants we popped into throughout the trip, like all the great pintxos places throughout Old Town in both San Sebastián and Bilbao. But the locations I mention in this article were some of the highlights and lowlights I wanted to share with those who may be passing through the area sometime soon.

If there are other restaurants folks should know about, feel free to comment on this post with your own suggestions.

Salud!